Jan. 26th: Watercolor Value Scales

Hi Class!

Today we made VALUE SCALES with watercolor. We learned how to mix these values in the mixing trays that are attached to the paints.

We learned that:

• More water mixed with paint (diluted) = lighter color
• Less water mixed with paint = darker/saturated color
• How to get colors even darker than the actual paint — mix black into paint (slowly, little by little).
• “Scrubbing” our paper with our brushes will make holes in our paper (rubbing back and forth with our brush while putting paint on the paper)
• *** Your pictures will be on the blog in a private post soon. The link will be sent via RenWeb.

Next week we will:

• Learn how to use the grid method with watercolor
• Practice using the grid/watercolor by doing a sphere study (one class period)
• Begin our self-portraits
• These watercolor self-portraits will be DUE February 12th.

I’ve added some videos explaining how to practice values with watercolor. These will be very helpful to watch over the weekend.

• The first video is a basic intro to  getting values (lights/darks) correct with watercolor and how to make things look 3-dimensional.
• The next two videos are creative portraits done in watercolor. I thought they were interesting to watch because you see how the artist starts with very light watercolor (which means mostly water with just a bit of paint).
• Watching how other people do things will help you have a strategy and feel more confident when you work on your own project. 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jan. 25th: Self-Portaits using the Grid Method

Hi Class!

Today we will be learning how to use the GRID METHOD to achieve photorealistic results when drawing. This is just one method you can use to draw people realistically.

We will be looking at  side-by-side photo/drawing examples, portraits that use line art to create values, and traditional all pencil grid method portraits. I know that portraits can feel overwhelming, but if you give yourself some grace to learn the process, I guarantee you will be pleasantly surprised with the results. 🙂

 

Traditional grid method pencil portraits:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Side-by-side photo/grid method drawings:

 

 

 

 

Portraits that use LINE ART to create VALUES:

 

 

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[Excerpt taken from http://www.art-is-fun.com/grid-method]

The Grid Method

how to use the grid method to enlarge or transfer an image

This is Page 9 of a 15-page guide explaining how to paint photorealistically.

The grid method is an inexpensive, low-tech way to reproduce and/or enlarge an image that you want to paint or draw. The grid method can be a fairly time-intensive process, depending on how large and detailed your painting will be. While the process is not as quick as using a projector or transfer paper, it does have the added benefit of helping to improve your drawing and observational skills.

In a nutshell, the grid method involves drawing a grid over your reference photo, and then drawing a grid of equal ratio on your work surface (paper, canvas, wood panel, etc). Then you draw the image on your canvas, focusing on one square at a time, until the entire image has been transferred. Once you’re finished, you simply erase or paint over the grid lines, and start working on your painting, which will be now be in perfect proportion! Yay.

To use the grid method, you need to have a ruler, a paper copy of your reference image, and a pencil to draw lines on the image. You will also need a work surface upon which you will be transferring the photo, such as paper, canvas, wood panel, etc.

To draw the grid lines on paper, I would recommend using a mechanical pencil, so that you can get a thin, precise line. Be sure to draw the grid very lightly, so that you can easily erase it when you are finished.

To draw the grid lines on canvas or wood, I would suggest using a thin piece of sharpened charcoal. Again, make sure you make the grid lines as light as possible, so that they are easy to erase when you are finished. The benefit of using charcoal on canvas or wood, instead of using pencil, is that charcoal can be easily wiped off with a paper towel or rag, whereas pencil can be more difficult to erase.

The important thing to remember when drawing the grids is that they must have a 1:1 ratio. This is very important – otherwise your drawing will be distorted! Basically, a 1:1 ratio means that you will have the exact same number of lines on your canvas as you will on your reference photo, and that in both cases, the lines must be equally spaced apart – perfect squares.

Confused? It’s quite easy once you get the hang of it. Let’s see the grid method in action, and it will make more sense.

Let’s say you want to paint the following image:

This reference photo is 5″ x 7″. As luck would have it, you want to make a 5″ x 7″ painting from this photo. So drawing the grid will be pretty straightforward. But if you want to make a large painting, you could also make a painting that is 10″ x 14″or 15″ x 21″ or 20″ x 28″. Why those sizes and not other sizes? Because those sizes are the same ratio as the 5″ x 7″ reference photo. In other words:

See? It’s basic math. The size of your artwork must always be equally proportionate to the size of the reference photo.

Because of this, it’s important to be aware of what size canvases and wood panels are commercially available. If you stretch your own canvases, you can get stretcher bars in just about any size to suit your needs. But if you’re like most of us, you buy pre-stretched canvases, so you are limited to the more popular sizes.

So, back to grid-making. Here is what you want your grid to look like:

To draw the grid:

Each square is 1 square inch. To draw this grid, put your ruler at the top of the paper, and make a small mark at every inch. Place the ruler at the bottom of the paper and do the same thing. Then use the ruler to make a straight line connecting each dot at the bottom with its partner at the top.

Now place the ruler on the left side of your paper, and make a small mark at every inch. Then place the ruler on the right side of the paper, and do the same thing. Then, using your ruler, make a straight line connecting the dots on the left with their partners on the right.

Voila, you’ve got a grid! Now repeat the same procedure on your paper or canvas:

You’ve now got a grid on your work surface that perfectly matches the grid of your reference photo. Bravo!

Because this painting will be the exact size as the reference photo, the squares on this canvas are also 1 square inch. If this painting was going to be 10″ x 14″, then the squares would need to be 2 square inches, because:

See?

Basically, to enlarge the image, you’ll need to do this kind of math (even if you hate math!). It’s necessary in order to make sure the enlargement is exactly proportionate to the original. If you’re not sure whether you’ve done the math correctly, just count the number of squares in each row and in each column, and ask yourself:

• Are there an equal number of rows and columns on the canvas as there are on the reference photo?
• Are the squares on the canvas perfect squares, just like the squares on the reference photo?

If you can answer yes to both of those questions, you’ve got the gridding process down pat!

Now, back to the 5″ x 7″ grid above.

I find that it’s sometimes easier to keep track of where I am amongst all those little squares by marking them numerically and alphabetically along the edges of the paper and canvas. This way if I get lost, especially within a much larger painting with many more squares, I can easily locate where I want to be. I write the numbers and letters really small and lightly, so that they can be easily erased. It looks something like this:

And this is how it looks on the paper or canvas:

 

So now your task is to transfer what you see in the reference photo, block by block, onto your canvas or paper. When I use the grid method, I always start at the top left corner, and work my way across and down. Since Square A1 is blank in the reference photo, we’ll move on to A2. Draw in A2 exactly as you see it:

The grid basically divides the original image into smaller blocks so that you can more easily see what belongs where. You can see that in the photo, the left side of the little bowl intersects the corner at the bottom left of Square A2. So you draw the line from there to just below the middle of the line between A2 and A3.

That first block was easy! Now do the next block:

So you see that as you are transferring the image, you are only paying attention to one block at a time. Don’t worry about the other blocks – just focus on that one block. Try as much as you can to copy exactly what you see in that little square in the photo to the corresponding square on your paper or canvas. Focus on getting the placement of each line just right! Here we go:

And then the next square:

 

I think you get the idea now. Basically you continue on in this manner, until all the squares are done and the image is completely transferred. By focusing on one square at a time, you end up drawing what you actually see, and not what you think you see or even what you think you ought to see. Once finished, you now have a pretty accurate rendition of your reference photo, ready for painting or drawing!

When you are done transferring the image, gently erase the grid lines. Congratulations – you’re ready to paint!

in summary…

The grid method has been used by artists for centuries as a tool to creating correct proportions. Renaissance artists, even the great Leonardo da Vinci, used the grid method! The grid method dates back to the ancient Egyptians. It is clearly a useful method for artists and aspiring artists alike. If you plan to use the grid method, keep the following tips in mind:

If you are planning to enlarge your reference photo to create a bigger painting, please remember to keep the proportions correct. Make sure that everything is equal. For instance, if your photo is 8″ x 10″, then you can easily create a painting that in this sizes:

These sizes work because they are all equal to 8″ x 10″. Basically, if you multiply one side by 2, multiply the other side by 2 as well. This is the only way that the enlargement will be proportionally correct!

If you want to paint using a pre-stretched canvas, but your reference photo does not fit any of the standard canvas sizes, try cropping your photo so that it does fit.

The grid method is not only useful for photorealistic paintings, but can also be applied to enlarge or transfer drawings or sketches in any style, such as abstract, cubist, whimsical, etc. It’s an effective way to transform that little doodle in your sketchbook into a full-blown painting!

Jan. 21: Still Life – Due soon!

REMINDERS:

Your STILL LIFE drawing is DUE:

• FRIDAY January 22 (7th period)
• MONDAY January 25 (8th period)

You are responsible for turning in your still life on time and bringing the photo you used as a reference for your drawing. If you did not print out your reference photo, you MUST EMAIL ME THE PHOTO at <astrauss@foothillchristian.org> .

If you do not bring your reference photo or email it to me, you will lose 2 points — this project is worth 10 points total.

You are responsible for checking the blog if you miss class or don’t remember what your homework is. In previous blog posts, there are many pictures and video examples of what we have covered in class.

Still Life Project – Requirements

• Your still life drawing must be completely shaded. Your shading must have a smooth transition/gradient. There should not be visible “lines” or “edges” unless that is how it looks in the picture you used. (2 pts.)

• There must be a cast shadow & a “surface” that your object(s) is resting on. If you have any questions or concerns about this, you can ask me personally. (2 pts.)

• Try your best to make your drawing look as realistic as possible (look just like the picture or object your are using). (2 pts.)

• Sign your name in the bottom right hand or left hand corner and date it. (2 pts.)

• Write your period number on the back in a corner or the page (7th or 8th period).

• Turn in or email me the picture you used as a reference. (2 pts.)

 

Jan 15: Still Life & Problem Solving

 

Hi Class!

Today we are working on our still life projects.

We are also going to talk about problem solving when making art.

Making art can make people feel happy and excited.. but also insecure scared. But we can address those bad feelings by talking about why people feel scared or insecure. I’m going to use my personal experience and some student experiences as examples.

1. Me

• I’ve felt scared when making art — especially when I’m doing something  that I’ve never done before. I have felt afraid of making mistakes. Afraid that I will work hard and still won’t be able to make something good.
• Now, when I feel that way… I go back and look at old work I made in the past. I see how much I’ve grown — and I remember that if I didn’t do my best and just keep working, I wouldn’t be where I am now. If I didn’t take risks (risk making bad work, risk other people not liking my work, risk not liking my own work), I wouldn’t be reaping the rewards I am now (I can draw, I can paint, I take good pictures, etc.)

2. My student

• I have a student who started my drawing class without much previous experience. Whenever we worked on our drawings, she wanted her drawings to look perfect right away. But this isn’t how drawing really works. So she was always frustrated and disappointed with her work. She felt like she couldn’t get anything right. But the problem wasn’t  her ability…. The problem was that she was rushing the process.

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Here are some videos that show the PROCESS of drawing by a former Disney animator.

 

 

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Art is risky.

Art is choices.

Art is problem solving.

 

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** Student still life images:

 

 

 

 

 

Jan 14th: Still Life – Videos & Requirements

Hi Class!

Here are some great videos to help you create a good still life drawing. Some are short, some are long. Below the videos you will find the requirements (grading rubric) for this project. As with all of our projects, this still life is worth 10 points.

 

 

 

 

 

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Still Life Project – Requirements (Grading Rubric)

• Your still life drawing must be completely shaded. Your shading must have a smooth transition/gradient.
• There must be a cast shadow & a “surface” that your object(s) is resting on. If you have any questions or concerns about this, you can ask me personally.
• Try your best to make your drawing look as realistic as possible (look just like the picture or object your are using).
• Sign your name in the bottom right hand or left hand corner and date it.
• Write your period number on the back in a corner or the page (7th or 8th period).

 

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Sphere Review:

 

Shading Review:

Jan. 12: Still Life Projects

Today we are starting our still life projects. I have given you all the option of drawing from life (having an object in front of you) or bringing in a picture of an object. I’m giving you the option of a picture because some of you cannot come into class every day or bring the same object without losing or breaking it. While this isn’t really a “traditional” still life, its close enough 😉 .

I will have simple items with me for you to use, and I will also have pictures for you to use. I suggest that you bring your own object or picture so that you can draw something you like/something that interests you.

I am putting all same pictures below so that you can use them at home / print them at home if you want to use them.

Review

Drawing your still life:

1. Break it down into the simplest shapes possible. Square, rectangle, oval, triangle.

2. Adjust these shapes (add curves, angles, adjust proportion).

3. Use your knowledge of simple forms to then shade your shapes and make them 3-dimensional.

4. Smooth out your pencil strokes if needed by blending with baby circles — use very soft pencil pressure. This will take TIME, but it will look GREAT when you’re done. 🙂

5. Add details LAST. (text letters, buttons, lines, etc.)

 

Today’s example of how to start your still life:

 

Composition: where you choose to place your object on the page & how big you choose to draw it.

• Use the RULE OF THIRDS to create an interesting composition. Avoid placing your object right in the middle of the paper. In the picture below, I showed you how the rule o thirds works in the middle diagram– if you cut your paper into three even pieces (horizontal & vertical), putting your object where one of the dots are (where lines intersect), will make your composition better. Or you can simply line up your object along one of the vertical or horizontal lines.
• 
• Placing your object at an angle (like the sunglasses picture) can make it more interesting even if you place the object near the middle.
• You will receive a grading rubric for this project during our next class.

Have an awesome day! 🙂

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Jan. 11: Finishing Spheres & Zuly Sanguino

Hi Class!

Today we are finishing up our spheres, talking about appropriate still life projects, and looking at the artwork of Zuly Sanguino. Why are we looking at her art? Because

“Zuly Sanguino is a talented young artist and motivational speaker. The 24-year-old Colombian creates beautiful, colorful paintings of flowers and landscapes that have been exhibited in various shows. She has also given several motivational lectures at corporate organizations, schools and prisons. Zuly is an exceptional woman, mainly because she’s managed to achieve so much even though she was born without fully formed limbs.

Born with phocomelia, a congenital disorder that affected all four of her limbs, Zuly was destined for a life of disability. The doctors had informed her mother, Guillermina, that Zuly would have to be lying down all the time for the rest of her life. In spite of their poverty and terrible living conditions (they lived in shacks with dirt floors), Guillermina wouldn’t give up on her daughter – she taught young Zuly to sit at first, and then walk on her own without external support.”

[Source: http://www.odditycentral.com/art/woman-born-without-arms-and-legs-overcomes-odds-become-successful-painter.html]

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Things to think about when drawing:

Drawing is like building a house.

(You don’t start with paint or nails or drywall.)

• You start by pouring a concrete foundation. Basically, a big square in the ground.

• 

• Then you start “framing” the house.

• 
• Then you close up the framing to make walls and put in electric and plumbing.
• 
• Then you put in insulation and drywall.
• 
• Then you make finishing touches like paint and trim.
• 

 

Same “process” can be applied in drawing.

• Basic shapes first – “frame” it.
• Slowly add basic shadow areas.
• Add more to shadow and detail slowly.
• “Finish” by blending away your pencil strokes (if you want). Erase away any lines you no longer need or clean up edges.

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Jan. 8: Simple Forms – Sphere

Hi Class!

Today we learned how to draw spheres. We will review and complete this on Monday. Please start thinking about what OBJECT you would like to draw for your STILL LIFE PROJECT. I have included examples below of simple still life drawings.

Example photo from today:

Process:

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Simple Still Life Examples:

 

 

 

This isn’t really “simple”, but it is really cool 🙂 . This drawing is by Dutch artist M. C. Escher.

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Homework:

• Complete your sphere from class.
• Draw another sphere in your sketchbook.
• Be prepared to tell me what your still life object will be (on Monday).

Jan. 7: Simple Forms – Cylinder

Today we will learn how to draw a cylinder.

A cylinder is made up of two parallel lines and two ellipses.

 

Ellipse definiton:

1. a regular oval shape, traced by a point moving in a plane so that the sum of its distances from two other points (the foci) is constant, or resulting when a cone is cut by an oblique plane that does not intersect the base.

 

Contrast:

High Contrast still life

 

Low contrast still life

 

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Today’s Lesson:

How to draw a cylinder

How to draw a sphere (to be continued)…

 

HOMEWORK:

Complete your drawing from class time.

 

Helpful link for review of drawing simple forms:

http://markbornowski.blogspot.com/2013/03/how-to-draw-box-rectangle-cone-sphere.html

Jan. 5: Picasso & Simple Forms

 

CUBISM

Factory, Horta de Ebbo (1909) – Pablo Picasso

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Simple Shapes + 3D (volume) + shading = Simple Forms

• square –> cube
• rectangle –> rectangular prism
• circle –> sphere
• triangle –> cone
• rectangle + cone = cylinder

 

If you can learn how to “break down” complicated objects/forms into simple forms, you will be able to draw ANYTHING.